How to Load a Lund Boat on a Trailer by Yourself

How to Load a Lund Boat on a Trailer by Yourself

By , owner of Boat2Trailer, Tea, South Dakota. Involved in automatic boat clamps since 2014 Published Updated
The short answer

On a bunk trailer, back in until about 1.5 to 3 feet of bunk is still above the water. On a roller trailer, back in less, just enough for the rollers to carry the hull. Approach at idle, heading into the wind, and secure the bow the moment it reaches the winch post. A tall deep V Lund catches a lot of wind, and on rollers it will roll back if nothing is holding it.

A Lund launched and loaded solo with the Ramp N Clamp, plus the install (2 min 46 sec). The full transcript is further down this page.

This page covers what's specific to Lund boats. For the full walkthrough of all four solo loading methods, power loading, and ramp etiquette, see our main guide: how to load a boat on a trailer by yourself.

1. Which Lund boats this covers

Lund lineHullThis guide applies?Automatic latch?
Aluminum deep V fishing boats (Pro-V, Pro Guide, Fisherman, Explorer, Angler)Aluminum, deep VYesYes. Model LGEN2
Aluminum fish-and-ski and multi-species (Tyee, Impact XS, Crossover XS, Alaskan, Rebel XL, Fury)Aluminum, deep VYesYes. Model LGEN2
GL fiberglass boats (Pro-V GL, Tyee GL, Impact GL)Fiberglass, deep VYesYes. Sport Model
WC and SSV utility boatsAluminum, small utilityDepth and wind sections, yesCheck the compatibility checker
Jon Boat and Mod Jon BoatAluminum, flat bottomDepth and wind sections, yesCheck the compatibility checker

2. Why a Lund loads differently

Lund builds big-water boats. Three things about them change how you load alone.

  • They're big and tall. A Lund 1875 Pro-V is 18 ft 11 in long with a 100 in beam and weighs 1,839 lb dry. It tows at about 3,259 lb with the trailer. A 202 Pro-V GL fiberglass boat weighs 2,700 lb dry. High sides and a tall bow give wind a lot to push against at the ramp, and a heavier boat takes longer to stop once it starts drifting.
  • They sit on bunk or roller trailers. Many Lunds ride on ShoreLand'r trailers, which come in both styles. Bunk trailers are float-on, float-off. Roller trailers let you drive on in shallower water. The trailer type changes your depth, your technique, and which latch handle fits best.
  • Aluminum and fiberglass Lunds use different bow eye hardware. Aluminum Lunds have a U-bolt bow eye with a rectangular mounting block at its base. GL fiberglass Lunds have a standard U-bolt bow eye with no mounting block. That decides which automatic latch fits (see section 5).

3. Trailer depth for a Lund: bunks vs rollers

Bunk trailer

Use the standard target: about 1.5 to 3 feet of bunk showing above the water. A heavier GL fiberglass Lund sits deeper in the water than an aluminum one, so it may need the trailer slightly deeper to float onto the bunks.

  • If the boat won't float onto the back of the bunks, back in a few more inches.
  • If it floats crooked or drifts off the bunks sideways, you're too deep.

Roller trailer

Roller trailers need less water. Back in only until the hull can reach the rear rollers and drive on. The rollers carry the boat up to the winch post with little throttle. The catch is that rollers work in both directions: until the bow is secured, a Lund on a roller trailer can roll back into the water, especially on a steep ramp.

Mark it once. When you find the depth that works for your Lund and trailer, wrap electrical tape on the fender bracket at the waterline and back in to the tape from then on. For photos of good and bad depth, see our trailer depth guide.

4. Loading a Lund solo, step by step

  1. Prep in the staging lane. Pull the winch strap out a few feet and lay the hook where you can reach it from the bow or the trailer tongue.
  2. Tie the boat off at the courtesy dock with a bow line and a stern line. A tall Lund will swing hard on a single line in a crosswind.
  3. Back the trailer to your tape mark and set the truck's parking brake.
  4. Read the wind before you untie. Plan to approach heading into the wind or current, whichever is stronger.
  5. Line up straight from well back. A long deep V hull tracks well once it's straight, so commit early rather than correcting late.
  6. Idle on. On bunks, let them carry the bow up to the winch post. On rollers, the boat will roll up easily, so use even less throttle. If you need real throttle on either, the trailer is too deep.
  7. Hold it and secure the bow right away. Stay in gear at idle, then shut down and hook the strap and safety chain. On a roller trailer, don't leave the helm until something is holding the bow.
  8. Winch it snug, pull out, and strap down clear of the ramp.
Don't power load or over throttle when loading a Lund. A 150 to 300 hp outboard at the bottom of a ramp digs a hole and piles up a sediment mound fast. The Minnesota DNR, Michigan DNR, and Oregon State Marine Board all warn against it. More on power loading.

5. Aluminum or fiberglass Lund: which bow eye?

What you seeWhich LundsAutomatic latch that fits
U-bolt bow eye with a rectangular mounting block at its baseAluminum Lunds (Pro-V, Tyee, Impact XS, Alaskan and others)Model LGEN2. Its polyurethane has a gap built in for the mounting block to pass through, for a snug fit.
Standard U-bolt bow eye with no mounting blockGL fiberglass Lunds (Pro-V GL, Tyee GL, Impact GL)Sport Model

A snug fit on the mounting block or eye means less wear on your boat and your bow eye. On aluminum Lunds, we recommend smoothing any sharp edges on the mounting block before you start using a latch. Not sure which you have? Our compatibility checker walks you through it.

6. Using an automatic bow latch on a Lund

Automatic bow latch: the Ramp N Clamp

An automatic bow latch replaces the bow roller on your Lund trailer's winch post with a spring-loaded clamp. When the boat comes up the bunks or rollers, the bow eye enters the clamp and it closes on its own. That closes the gap where a big Lund is most likely to go wrong: a crosswind pushing it off the bunks, or a roller trailer letting it roll back, before you've hooked the strap.

Full disclosure: we make it. The Ramp N Clamp has been patented and on the market since 2012, and we've built it from marine-grade stainless steel in Tea, South Dakota since 2022. It costs $299.99 and takes about five minutes to install.

  • Aluminum Lunds: Model LGEN2.
  • GL fiberglass Lunds: Sport Model.

Which handle for your Lund trailer

HandleBest forHow it resets
Long handle (aluminum)Roller trailersAutomatic. Can take a rope so you can release from the boat.
Automatic short handle (stainless)Bunk trailersAutomatic. Low profile.
Manual short handle (stainless)Bunk trailersManual. Lets you release the clamp before the boat is floating.

Launching your Lund with the clamp

  1. Back down the ramp and stop at the water's edge, before the trailer goes in.
  2. With the trailer still on dry ground, unhook the winch strap and safety chain from the bow eye. The clamp keeps holding the boat.
  3. Back the trailer in just deep enough for the boat to float.
  4. Pull the handle. The bow eye releases and the boat floats off. The automatic handle resets the clamp to the loading position for next time.

You'll still hook the winch strap and safety chain before you drive on the road. The latch is for loading, not towing. Details and pricing are on our Lund automatic boat latch page.

7. When a latch is the wrong answer for your Lund

  • Your Lund Jon Boat or Mod Jon Boat isn't on the compatible list. The clamp works on some of them but not all. Run your model through the compatibility checker before you buy.
  • The boat already loads crooked. Get the bunks or rollers adjusted to the hull first. A latch won't straighten a boat. It holds it where it lands.
  • Your boat is over about 6,500 lb. That's beyond what the clamp is built for. Check your boat's weight on its spec sheet.
  • You launch twice a year. With a depth mark and the steps above, the free methods in the main guide work fine for occasional use.

8. Lund troubleshooting

ProblemLikely cause on a LundFix
Boat blows sideways off the bunksTall hull in a crosswind, or trailer too deepBack in less. Approach into the wind and aim for the upwind bunk.
Boat rolls back after reaching the winch postRoller trailer with nothing holding the bowStay in gear at idle until the strap is hooked, or fit an automatic latch with the long handle.
GL fiberglass Lund won't float onto the bunksTrailer too shallow for a heavier hullBack in a few inches more, toward the 1.5 ft end of the range.
Bow stops short of the winch postTrailer too shallow, or dry bunk carpetBack in a little more. Wet or replace worn carpet.
Bow eye mounting block rubs the latch or rollerAluminum Lund mounting block with sharp edges, or wrong latch modelSmooth the block's edges. Aluminum Lunds need the Model LGEN2, which has a gap for the mounting block.

Video transcript

0:00 Introduction to the Boat2Trailer automatic bow latch

We're going to show you just how easily you can launch and load your Lund boat with the Ramp N Clamp automatic boat latch from Boat2Trailer.

0:09 How to launch a Lund boat with the Boat2Trailer clamp

To launch, start by backing your Lund down the ramp and stopping near the water's edge, just before the trailer enters the water. With the trailer still on dry ground, you can undo the winch strap and safety chain from the bow eye. Now, back the trailer into the water just deep enough so the boat is floating. Once the boat enters the water and pressure is created away from the clamp, you can pull the handle so the bow eye releases and the boat can float off the trailer freely. The automatic handle resets the clamp to the loading position automatically after each use.

0:41 How to load a Lund boat with the Boat2Trailer clamp

When you're ready to load your Lund, park your trailer in the water at a depth that allows the rollers or bunks to contact and center the boat. The correct depth for roller trailers is just deep enough so the hull can reach the rear rollers. And the correct depth for bunk trailers will typically leave 1½ to 3 feet of bunks out of the water. Drive the boat forward onto the trailer. The rollers or bunks will center the hull and raise the bow to a position where the bow eye can enter the polyurethane channel before locking with a click. That click is your confirmation the clamp is latched and the boat is secured to the trailer. When you load a Lund boat onto a roller trailer without a clamp, the boat is free to roll backwards until it is secured using the winch. The clamp locks around the bow eye and holds the boat in place the moment it latches. With the boat now secured to the trailer using the clamp, pull forward out of the water just enough to access the winch. Attach the winch strap and safety chain to the bow eye. Now your Lund is fully secured for travel.

1:43 How to install the Boat2Trailer clamp and eye protector

Installing the Ramp N Clamp on your Lund trailer is very simple and only takes a few minutes. This installation covers the LGEN2 Ramp N Clamp, designed for a U-bolt bow eye with a rectangular mounting block at the base. Fiberglass Lund boats with a standard U-bolt bow eye and no mounting block will require the Sport model Ramp N Clamp. If you have an adjustable winch stand, you can move it forward for the install or place the boat into the water before installing. Now remove the roller from your winch stand. Line up the Ramp N Clamp within the roller bracket. If there's a gap between the clamp and your roller bracket, you can use the included washers or spacers to fill it in. Insert the bolt with a single washer on each side. Tighten down the nut, making sure the clamp is able to pivot but holds its own weight when standing freely. If you adjusted your winch stand, you may now move it back to lock the bow eye. Resecure the winch stand, and your Ramp N Clamp is ready to go.

Frequently asked questions

How do I load a Lund boat on a trailer by myself?

On a bunk trailer, back in until about 1.5 to 3 feet of bunk is above the water. On a roller trailer, back in less. Idle straight on into the wind, let the trailer carry the bow to the winch post, and secure the bow right away. A tall deep V Lund catches wind, and on rollers it can roll back if nothing holds it.

How deep should my Lund trailer be in the water?

On a bunk trailer, about 1.5 to 3 feet of bunk should stay above the waterline. Heavier GL fiberglass Lunds may need the trailer slightly deeper. Roller trailers need less water than bunk trailers.

Is a bunk or roller trailer better for loading a Lund alone?

Both work. A roller trailer needs less water and less throttle, but the boat can roll back until the bow is secured. A bunk trailer holds the boat better but needs more precise depth. With an automatic bow latch, the long handle suits roller trailers and the short handles suit bunk trailers.

What automatic boat latch fits a Lund?

Aluminum Lunds have a U-bolt bow eye with a rectangular mounting block at its base, which takes the Ramp N Clamp Model LGEN2. Its polyurethane has a gap for the mounting block. GL fiberglass Lunds have a standard U-bolt bow eye with no mounting block, which takes the Sport Model.

Does an automatic boat latch work on a Lund jon boat?

On some of them. The Ramp N Clamp works on some Lund Jon Boat and Mod Jon Boat models but not all, so check the Boat2Trailer compatibility checker for yours. Lund's deep V aluminum and GL fiberglass boats do work with it.

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About the author

Rob owns Boat2Trailer in Tea, South Dakota, which has been involved in automatic boat clamps since 2014 and built the Ramp N Clamp automatic boat latch since 2022. He has spent a lot of hours at boat ramps watching people load solo and been a vendor at numerous sport shows all over the country listening to and teaching customers.

Sources

LUND and the Lund model names are trademarks of their respective owner. ShoreLand'r is a trademark of its respective owner. Boat2Trailer is not affiliated with or endorsed by Lund Boats.

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